Tucked away in deepest Gloucestershire are the centuries-old remains of Chedworth, a Roman villa built in phases from the 2nd to the 5th century AD. As well as giving a fascinating insight into the daily lives of Roman settlers to the UK, it also has some beautifully preserved mosaic floors in what would have been the main entertaining areas; letting us see how a well-to-do Roman citizen would have looked after his family and guests while living in Britannia.
Living like a Roman
Arriving at the car park for Chedworth Roman Villa you could be forgiven for thinking you were just in for a walk through the woods. The main entrance and overall signage is very unassuming and it’s easy to keep asking yourself if you’re actually in the right place.
Once you head towards the visitors centre you soon see that there is a lot more to it than a car park.
As part of your entry fee you are given a small tablet device with video and audio helping you to picture what life would have been like all those years ago, as well as expanding on some of the key features of this fascinating set of buildings.
The first thing you come to is a very beautiful scale model of how historians imagine the villa would have looked in its heyday. A knowledgeable and enthusiastic National Trust volunteer was on hand to talk us through the main points and explain what daily life might have looked like for a “normal” Roman.
From there, you follow a numbered path around the site using your tablet as a guide. There are several options at each stop ranging from historical facts and figures to more child-friendly interpretations of what’s on display.
The main draw of Chedworth are the mosaics, housed in a purpose-built shelter so that they can be preserved as best as possible. The original excavation, carried out by the landowner in the mid-19th century, was a little haphazard so sadly some elements have been disturbed. But more modern teams have done their best to rectify any damage and to present the mosaics in the best possible way.
You can see a large entertaining space where guests would have been wined and dined, as well as the bath house at the opposite end of the building. In between is an area with some artefacts that were found on the site, including a piece of graffiti which appears to show a slave’s support for their favourite Roman chariot team back in their homeland. In this section there are also some Roman-style toys and games to keep children (and adults) entertained.
Outside the mosaic building the rest of the site looks more like a ruin, although the main outlines and foundations of the buildings are largely intact so you can get a sense of the scale of the dwelling.
In the middle of the villa is a quaint Victorian building (the “museum”) which houses an eclectic selection of treasures uncovered during the site’s excavation. There’s also a picnic area and seating if you just want to rest your legs for five minutes, and a small grassy area down a steep hill where the kids can let off some steam.
Random fact we learned on the day
Not all hypocaust systems were created equal. There’s a great demonstration of this on the far side of the villa where you can see three different methods of the Roman’s underfloor heating systems in three different rooms; from a quite primitive “channel” type set-up to the more recognisable raised platforms.
Our top tip for visiting
The selection of food in the cafe is limited and, like most National Trust properties, pretty pricey, so take a picnic unless you’re dead set on an overpriced pasty.
What age range is it suitable for?
Assuming the weather is good this is suitable for all ages. There’s plenty of history to learn about, but also a lot of green space for kids to explore if they’ve had enough of ruins.
How long were we there?
We spent two hours here, including a lunch break. The site itself is quite small so unless you are absolutely fanatical about Roman life you would struggle to spend longer than that in amongst the ruins. There are more walks you can do around the visitor centre, though, so you could extend the day with a stroll through the woods.
How much does it cost?
We have a National Trust family membership, so it was free for us. At the time of our visit it cost £30 for a family ticket – but check the National Trust website for up-to-date pricing.
Is there a gift shop?
Yes, a good one. Plenty of Roman-related things to buy as well as a very interesting selection of books about the period. We came away with an Ordnance Survey map of Britain’s historical sites.
Is there a cafe?
Yes but, as mentioned, it’s quite small compared to most National Trust places we’ve visited so the selection is quite limited.
Is it accessible?
Not fully. There’s a lot of uneven surfaces and steps around the main site. The National Trust have done their best considering the layout of the site. Best to check the website again to make sure what facilities are available.
How did we get there?
It’s in the middle of nowhere, down some fairly narrow B roads so the only way to get there would be by car/taxi.
When did we go?
Tuesday 4th April, 2023.
Information about Chedworth Roman Villa
Chedworth Roman Villa, Yanworth, near Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, GL54 3LJ
01242 890 256
chedworth@nationaltrust.org.uk
nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/gloucestershire-cotswolds/chedworth-roman-villa
